Kayak the Mekong in Kratie, spot rare Irrawaddy dolphins, and stay at Chhlong’s restored riverside mansion for a serene Cambodian escape.
Beyond the awe-inspiring temples of Angkor lies another Cambodia—river-woven, timeless, and quietly spectacular. Follow the Mekong north and you reach Kratie, where dawn light skims silver across the water and one of Asia’s rarest creatures rises to breathe. The Irrawaddy dolphins—rounded-headed, gentle, and wonderfully curious—have made this stretch of river as their refuge. At the Kampi Dolphin Sanctuary, just beyond town, you wait in the hush of morning as the river exhales. A fin breaks the surface, then another. It’s a fleeting, intimate moment that feels like a blessing. Years of careful protection have brought cautious hope here, with new calves sighted in recent seasons—small signs of recovery in a changing world.
To meet the Mekong on its own terms, slip into a kayak and paddle an 11-kilometer route that threads through sandy islets and flooded forests. The river’s rhythm sets your pace. Egrets lift from reed beds, kingfishers flicker like sparks, and the air smells of warm water and wild herbs. Sometimes you glide in glassy stillness; sometimes the current gives you a soft nudge around a bend. Pull up on a hidden sandbar for a swim, or drift quietly, letting the scenery unspool: fishermen casting nets at first light, water hyacinth idling past, a dolphin’s soft roll in the distance. It’s immersive, unhurried, and deeply restorative—the kind of experience that lingers long after your paddle rests.
When the day softens to gold, the river road leads you to Chhlong, a drowsy town with a storied past. Here, on the Mekong’s bank, Le Relais de Chhlong welcomes you like a chapter from a well-loved novel. Built in 1916 and exquisitely restored, the mansion blends Austro-Hungarian Baroque flourishes with French Second Empire grace, adapted to the tropics with wide verandas and soaring ceilings. Step inside to find frescoed ceilings, wrought-iron details, patterned tiles worn to a silky sheen, and antiques that feel collected rather than curated. The restaurant pavilion opens to river views and soft evening breezes; night falls with the chirr of cicadas and the low murmur of water against the quay. Base yourself here and the northeast opens like a map of possibilities: slow boat rides to spot dolphins in softer light, bicycle loops through orchards and riverside villages, temple-studded detours into pre-Angkorian history, and day trips toward forested highlands. This is travel that favors quiet pleasures—early mornings, long shadows, the companionship of a great river—and rewards you with a rare sense of connection. In Kratie and Chhlong, Cambodia’s Mekong offers both sanctuary and story: a living waterway, a graceful hotel, and memories written in the shimmer of the tide.
Ready for an adventure that goes beyond the temples? Contact us at sales.cambodia@khiri.com for more information.